Every skincare word, in one plain sentence

The ingredients doing measurable work — acids, retinoids, vitamin C. One new active at a time, always.

Also called: active

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A prescription-strength retinoid sold over the counter for acne. Stable alongside benzoyl peroxide, unlike retinol.

Pregnancy Avoided in pregnancy along with the rest of the retinoid family.

Also called: differin

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A gentle brightener for dark marks. Slower than acids, and far less likely to irritate.

Also called: arbutin

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Calms visible redness and post-spot marks without the sting most actives bring to reactive skin.

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The outermost layer that keeps water in and irritants out. When it is damaged, everything stings.

Also called: moisture barrier, skin barrier

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An antibacterial that clears active spots quickly. It bleaches fabric, so keep it away from good towels.

Also called: bp, bpo

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Sunscreen that filters both UVB (burning) and UVA (ageing) light. Anything less is half a sunscreen.

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Applying moisturiser before a retinoid so it works more gently. Costs a little strength, saves a lot of peeling.

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Cica. A soothing botanical used to settle redness and support healing after actives.

Also called: cica, centella asiatica, madecassoside

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The lipids your barrier is built from. Replacing them is what stops the tight, flaky feeling.

Also called: ceramide

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UV filters that absorb light rather than sitting on top. Lighter and clearer on the skin, and better on deeper tones.

Also called: organic filter, avobenzone, tinosorb

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A blocked pore. Open ones read as blackheads, closed ones as the small bumps under the surface.

Also called: blackhead, closed comedone

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An oil or balm first to lift sunscreen and makeup, then a water-based wash. Evenings only.

Also called: oil cleanse

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No fragrance added at all. Not the same as unscented, which can use masking fragrance to hide a base smell.

Also called: unscented, parfum

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The quiet workhorse humectant. Cheap, non-irritating and in almost every good moisturiser.

Also called: glycerol

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The smallest AHA, so it penetrates fastest. Strong on dullness and texture, and the most likely acid to sting.

Also called: aha, alpha hydroxy acid

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An ingredient that draws water into the skin — glycerin and hyaluronic acid are the common ones.

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A humectant that holds water in the upper skin. Apply to damp skin and seal it with moisturiser.

Also called: sodium hyaluronate, ha

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Patches darker than your base tone — from spots, sun or inflammation. Slow to fade, and SPF decides the pace.

Also called: dark marks, pih, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation

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A gentler AHA that hydrates while it exfoliates. A sensible first acid if glycolic feels sharp.

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A large, slow AHA. The kindest acid for reactive or deeper skin tones because it works evenly rather than fast.

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Vitamin B3. Calms redness, steadies oil and supports the barrier. Sits happily beside almost anything.

Also called: vitamin b3, nicotinamide

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Formulated not to block pores. Useful shorthand, though it is not a regulated claim.

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A sealing layer, like squalane or petrolatum, that stops water escaping overnight.

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Provitamin B5. Soothes and helps a stressed barrier recover — common in post-active repair creams.

Also called: provitamin b5, vitamin b5

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Trying a new product on a small area for a few days before it goes near your whole face. Worth the wait.

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Short chains of amino acids that support firmness. A gentle partner while you build retinoid tolerance.

Also called: peptide, copper peptides, matrixyl

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How acidic a formula is. Skin sits around 4.7–5.5; acids work low, and a very high-pH wash leaves skin tight.

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Polyhydroxy acid — gluconolactone and lactobionic acid. Exfoliates the surface only and holds water while it does it.

Also called: polyhydroxy acid, gluconolactone

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A short flare as accelerated cell turnover clears existing congestion. Lasts weeks, not months, and only in usual breakout areas.

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The family name for retinol and its prescription relatives — the best-studied ingredient for lines and texture. Evenings only.

Pregnancy Retinoids are avoided in pregnancy. Azelaic acid is the usual stand-in.

Also called: tretinoin, retinaldehyde, retinal

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The over-the-counter retinoid. Start twice a week at night and build up slowly.

Pregnancy Not used in pregnancy — swap to azelaic acid or a peptide serum.

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An oil-soluble acid that clears inside the pore rather than only on the surface. Best for congestion and blackheads.

Pregnancy Leave-on strengths above 2% are usually avoided; a rinse-off cleanser is generally considered fine.

Also called: bha, beta hydroxy acid, salicylic

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Alternating active nights with recovery nights so skin gets the benefit without the irritation.

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Sealing a finished night routine under a thin occlusive layer. Excellent for dry skin, risky over actives.

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How much longer skin resists burning. SPF 30 or higher, applied every morning, does the bulk of anti-ageing work.

Also called: sun protection factor, sunscreen

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A light, stable oil that softens skin and slows water loss without feeling heavy or clogging pores.

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Transepidermal water loss — water evaporating out through the skin. High TEWL is what tightness and flaking feel like.

Also called: transepidermal water loss

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Targets stubborn discolouration and melasma without exfoliating. Pairs well with niacinamide.

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Both a humectant and a mild softener. At 5–10% it smooths rough, flaky patches without acid sting.

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A morning antioxidant that evens tone and supports SPF. Look for a stable formula in an opaque bottle.

Also called: ascorbic acid, l-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside

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The grey film some mineral sunscreens leave on deeper skin tones. Tinted or chemical filters avoid it.

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A mineral UV filter that sits on the surface and covers the full UVA/UVB range. The usual pick for reactive skin.

Also called: mineral filter, titanium dioxide

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